The Dutch do it best. They’ve mastered the art of the capsule wardrobe: 25 or so items, mostly black and neutral, high-quality, impeccably tailored and designed to mix and match to create more looks with less. The French version adds a little color – sometimes a print, a bright accessory – but is more expensive. The Japanese have their own spin: separates, soft colors, casual wear, a set number of large fits. Taking their cue from designer Donna Karan’s 1985 collection, 7 Easy Pieces, American working women found comfort in basic blue jeans, white t-shirts and wrap dresses.
Can a minimalist wardrobe really work in India, where excess is more, and gold is a permanent part of the palette? Style conscious people (and those looking to walk lightly on the planet) are experimenting with the idea. Stylists Divyak D’Souza, Edward Lalrempuiya, and fashion designer Payal Asnani break down the essentials for an Indian capsule wardrobe.
A killer chiffon saree. It tops D’Souza’s list. “In warmer months, wear it with a light blouse. In winter, layer it up. For a festive event, pair it with a sequin blouse,” he says. Lalrempuiya and Asanani also voted for Sari. Invest in a cocktail drape, so it can be paired with a skirt or pantsuit, expanding its use.
Wrap top. Tunic tops fit most body types and are adaptable to body shapes, says D’Souza. “There’s also a good movement for it,” he says. Established designers like Abraham & Thakore and Rajesh Pratap Singh create classic styles that look good to age. If you want to dress it up, go for silk or fine muslin. Pair linen with jeans for a casual look.
Desi pants. Stand out in a sea of pinstripes and houndstooth with trousers and jackets made from Indian handloom and silk. A blazer paired with a dress, shorts or a kurti is a look in itself. The pants left the white blouse. Together, with jewelry, they are ready for the spotlight. Opt for a tailored one or one from designers like Payal Khandwala, Kshitij Jalori or Suket Dhir, suggests D’Souza.
High white kurta. Instead of 20 boring ones that look the same after a while, invest in a well-crafted one or two with fine silk and delicate white embroidery. Choose from solid white or off white – which look great with relaxed trousers and flats, as well as cigarette pants and heels. “You can pair it with a nice jacket for a more formal look,” says Asnani.
A show-stealing dupatta. It’s just the length of the garment, but it works as a cover-up and accessory, so get one that pays attention to detail, says D’Souza. Tarun Tahiliani, Anju Modi and Anjul Bhandari make wearable styles that are a good investment. Choose from mustard, olive green or rust – they pair well with salwar-suits, lehengas or white kurtas.
Perfect Fit Kurta Set. Crisp tailoring is a bigger power move than expensive ill-fitting labels. “It’s the little details that set it apart from the Fabindia piece,” says D’Souza. Slim fit cigarette pants, collared kurta, two buttons and stitched pockets are perfect for a formal get together. This set is also easy to break. You can wear a kurta with pants or jeans with a t-shirt.
Classic tan sandals. It gets votes from all three stylists. “But not Kolhapuri or Amritsari Jutti,” warns D’Souza. Get a more modern style that you can wear to more than just a traditional event. Lalrempuia also recommends a more modern classic: white leather shoes. “It adds a luxurious touch and is easier to maintain than white Converse shoes.” Pair them with denim, dresses and shorts and suits.
carry all. Lalrempuia recommends getting a small tote bag with a detachable strap, allowing it to be worn as a sling or cross body bag to work or casual events, or as a clutch for a more formal party.
From HT Brunch, April 22, 2023
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